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Kebabs, Biryani along with Much More: An Indian Metropolis Earns a Spot on UNESCO's Gastronomy List.

Biryani cooking using the traditional Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.

Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.

Worldwide Recognition

Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".

The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.

A City Defined by Food

The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.

"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
Tender kebabs being served
Lucknow is renowned for its incredibly tender kebabs.

A Royal Culinary Legacy

The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.

These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.

It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.

But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.

Beyond Kebabs and Biryani

Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.

The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Frothy dessert Makkhan Malai
The city offers special seasonal delights, such as Makkhan Malai, a unique cloud-like dessert, when it gets cold.

Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries

Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.

In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.

In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall serving masala chai
A renowned tea stall is noted for its creamy spiced tea.

Preserving Tradition for the Future

The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.

On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children are unwilling to learn the art.

A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.

The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.

By

Michael Travis

Liam is een ervaren foodcriticus en schrijver, gespecialiseerd in Amerikaanse keuken en lokale eetgelegenheden.

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